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When you choose fabric you should certainly know the following:
- what clothes you want to get;
- what qualities the fabric should posess;
- what skills the work with the fabric demand.
If you are going to wear blouse with jacket the fabric shouldn’t rumple. There are no bad fabrics, there are unsuitable. Three tests for textile fabrics:
- To assess the fabric elasticity, rumple a part of fabric in hand and then let it off. If wrinkles are left this means that the clothes will be difficult in sewing and it will rumple a lot.
- To assess durability of the fabric, stretch it with the help of fingers. If the threads don’t keep its place in the weaving this means the fabric won’t keep its form.
- To check the quality of the fabric in drapery, you should hang it on the hand or hangers. If there are no pretty folds, this means the fabric may not suit for your chosen model of clothes.
If you choose the fabric for suit assess what qualities it may need. You should have a clear idea of fabric qualities and specifications in order to know what is the fabric you deal with.
Fibre composition:
- Natural fibres are easy to form and iron, stitches are not visible on them;
- Synthetics are difficult to form and iron, it may melt upon ironing and it is not easy to take of ironed folds.
Colour:
- Middle and middle-dark colours hide stitches, overcasts and lining; they get dirty less.
- Light colours demand special accuracy while sewing. If you choose light colour be note that the roughness and deffects of the back side will be seen on the product’s face side.
- On a very dark-coloured fabrics there may be seen some glaze after wrong ironing.
Texture surface:
- Fabrics with complex surface structure hide deffects of stitches. Lining borders on a face side of such structure will be not visible.
- Plain fabrics with dense surface will show all the disadvantages. They are difficult to form.
Density of weaving:
- Weaving of middle density is elastic and flexible, it keeps form and doesn’t crumble.
- Lax fabrics don’t keep form. They are handy for glue sewing technique, but if there is no special pad, it crumbles.
To sew a suit of good quality, the right type of lining and pad should be chosen.
Pad materials help to create a silhouette of an article and to add some volume to the shoulders, front part and arm-holes. They support back part of an article and create straight and clear-cut lines of lapels, pockets and cuffs. Due to pad, a bends of collars and lapels are more flowing and it increases the period of article durability.
Lining is the last point in jacket or coat producing.
It masks the inside part of an article and protect the main fabric from wearing down. Lining is also take greater tension while wearing and prevents loosing the form at the parts of close fit.
Useful advice: it is very important to take into your account such characterisric of a fabric as shrinkage. Before sewing, sponge it.
To define the exact fibre the bought fabric is made from you should test it with the help of flame:
- Natural fibres burn and become charred to ashes;
- Synthetics melt to hard clot;
- Cotton and linen (floral fibres), as well as wool and silk (organic fibres) burn equally;
- Cotton and linen burn quickly with following glow. After burning they smell as burnt paper. The ash is grey colour.
- Wool and silk burn slowly, charring and curling up. Sometimes they burn more intensive when they are in the fire. The smell is like burnt hair or feathers.
- Polyester, nylon and other synthetics don’t burn, they just melt in the fire with chemical smell to hard clot;
- Acetate fibres and acrylics burn and melt in the fire to hard clot. To define acetate fabric you should leave it in the polish remover – acetate will dissolve.
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